A couple of lifetimes ago, I was a student living in Montréal — back when I thought I could survive off of baguettes, shawarma, and bagels. I went to McGill in the 1990s, and it was an amazing, formative time. I learned a lot — both in class and at 3 a.m. after trudging through snow to grab a smoked meat poutine and a strawberry New York cheesecake.
As a city, Montréal is an odd concotion of many different cultures mashed together, yet somehow distinct. And between those distinct areas, there were neutral zones that exemplified this idea of being together yet distinct (e.g. Québec is distinct within a inseparable Canada). Back then, the area I hanged out was a neutral zone between the Francophones (French-speaking) and Allophones (English-speaking) — Boulevard St. Laurent (a.k.a. “The Main”) was a soft border: west of it was more English-speaking, east of Boulevard Ste. Denis leaned French. Here you would be able to sit down for coffee and hear someone speaking French while their friend responded in English — not because they didn’t understand each other, but because they didn’t need to switch. Each person in their preferred language, the conversation still beautifully alive. It’s a little detail that says a lot about the city: respectful, multilingual, animated, and caffeinated … when not slightly drunk 🙂 .
Yet another wonderful example of how Montréal is a perfect Canadian microcosm? In 1993, in the Old Forum, the Montreal Canadiens won the Stanley Cup and there was rioting in the streets. In 1995, Québec nearly separated from Canada — the vote came down to 0.6% — and the streets were relatively calm. Welcome to Montréal logic (and I love it).
Poutine, Bagels, and Maple Syrup Dreams
And now, let’s get to what you really came for: the food. Montréal’s got no shortage of amazing places to eats — and this most recent trip reminded me just how deep the culinary scene goes. Some old favorites, some new discoveries — and not enough time to visit all of them so here are a few of my favorites (this time around)
🍟 Chez Claudette: A Time Capsule of Poutine
Step into Chez Claudette and you’re instantly transported to the 60s, and that’s absolutely the charm. The poutine is gloriously old-school: thick-cut fries and cheese curds engulfed by rich brown gravy. But where things get fun is the menu — a wild mix of toppings like smoked meat, sausage, peas, and whatever else they’ve got tucked in the fridge that day. It’s late-night comfort food at its finest.
☕ La Finca Café: My new local cafe
This one took me by surprise. La Finca sits right in the hotel district near Palais des congrès, and on paper, you’d assume tourist trap. Except… not even close. On my first visit, the surrounding road was under construction — the only way in was weaving across a single lane between two jackhammer crews. I expected a ghost town. Instead, it was packed with locals speaking Quebecois French, sipping espresso, and digging into lovely locally-sourced pastries.
I went once. Then again. And again. Four days out of my six-day trip, actually. Why? Great vibe, great food, phenomenal coffee. Their Bagel BLT uses my all-time favorite bagel: the Ste. Viateur bagel — superior to NYC bagels (I said it). I felt at home, even with my French as rusty as my bike chain left in Taiwan’s humidity.
🥞 What a Dandy little place!
Okay, Dandy is undeniably hip (and yes, I’m very, very square – cue Huey Lewis and the News). The pancakes are divine. Think Japanese-style soufflé pancakes — light, fluffy, with just enough density to satisfy. And yes, drenched in real Québec maple syrup.
🚇 The Underground City
When it’s -20°C and the wind’s coming off the river like it’s angry at you, Montréal’s underground city becomes more than just a novelty. It’s survival.
Stretching from Chinatown to downtown, this network of tunnels and malls let us travel across the city without ever stepping outside. As a student, this area kept me warm navigating from McGill campus to getting cheap all you can eat Chinese buffet.
🏛 Crew Collective: Coffee in a Cathedral of Capital
Housed in the grandiose lobby of a former Canadian bank, Crew Collective is what happens when someone says, “You know what this financial temple needs? Espresso.” It’s stunning — marble columns, vaulted ceilings, and a must visit.
The coffee is solid, and the food’s worth the wait. I tried their Bagel BLT and immediately noticed something different. Turns out they use Fairmount Bagels (still great), while La Finca uses Ste. Viateur (my preference — and yes, I ship them to the Pacific Northwest).
⛪ Notre Dame Basilica
Photos don’t do it justice. The Notre Dame Basilica is breathtaking: blue and gold interiors, intricate woodwork, and enough history to question the impact of the Catholic Church. Oh, side note – Celine Dion got married here in 1994.
🥘 Bonus Shoutouts
While lacking some pictures, I needed to provide a shoutout to these two amazing foodie gems:
- Queen Sheba: Delicious Ethiopian food with injera that hits just right. 👉 Queen Sheba’s website
- Sumac: One of the best Middle Eastern meals I’ve had in a while. Beautifully balanced flavors, and even as takeout, everything was still vibrant and fresh. 👉 Sumac’s website
Until We Meet Again MTL (soon)!
Montréal will always have a piece of my heart. It’s a city of food, culture, and cycling (i.e. the whole purpose of this blog). By day three, after enough time sipping lattes and Bagel BLTs at La Finca, my French started creeping back. It’s still broken, but the neurons are firing again — and I’m loving the feeling of reconnecting with a language that once helped shape who I am.
I’ll be back soon — and I promise to share more food finds when I return for COLM 2025.
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